Visiting Sagarmatha – Trekking to the roof
of the world
Everest Base Camp Trek
For as long as I
can remember, the allure of standing under the mountains has held a special soul
calming influence on me. And right there, among the top of the list is the
desire to stand in the shadows of the highest mountain on the planet, Everest,
or Sagarmatha as the locals named it. With this longing pulling at the strings
of my heart, I decided to embark on the pilgrimage to the roof of the world –
The Everest Basecamp Trek. This is the story of that journey, an odyssey into
the heart of Himalayas, to embark on the adventure of a lifetime.
I have this
feeling that the mountains, with their unpredictable weather, decide when you are
worthy of visiting them. For me, the journey from Pakistan to Nepal added
another area of uncertainty. There are no direct flights, so I had to fly via
Muscat. And so, it was on the Friday the 13th, of October that I stood
in front of the ticket counter in Muscat, two bag packs and one sleeping bag
handy by my side. I may take a sidestep here to mention that as opposed to the
other hikes that I had done before, such as the K2 base camp, or the Gondogora
La; the Everest basecamp trek is known for its host of tea house lodges all the
way to the last stop on the trail. This allows you to travel light and even
solo – I had used the advice of a friend and had a porter and a guide waiting
for me on the other end.
Now coming back
to that fateful afternoon at the lone ticket counter in Muscat. I reached three
hours early only to be told that they were overbooked, and I must take a chance
the next day. Dejected, I was about to lose all hope; when an hour into the
dejection, I got waved by the counter staff to rush for a chance at the
boarding pass…miraculously 15 empty spaces had opened in the flight. Maybe, the
mountains did want me back!
Day 1: Muscat –
Khatmandu – Lukla – Phakding
After landing at
Khatmandu, I met with Mr. Anil – my friend by now, and the owner of the
trekking company that I was going to trust my dream with. Just a couple of
hours rest at his hotel in the touristic center of Thamel, and we are off to a 5-hour
trip to Ramechap – a small hill station that is used as a staging airport for
flights to Lukla, the starting point of the trek to this part of Himalayas. My
flight is scheduled as the first flight for the day at 6:00 AM. My anxiety with
the air travel continues, as the early morning clouds reduce the chances of an
early take off. There are around 80-90 tourists there with me, some from the flights
cancelled over the last two days. It is a two hour wait, but then my flight is finally
announced. We rush to the twin rotter plane, to fly to one of the most
fascinating airports in the world, Tenzing – Hillary Airport, with its sloping
runway at a staggering elevation of 2,860m. I came to know halfway into the
trek that mine was the last flight for the next three days as the weather came
in. The mountains were really calling for me!
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| Runway at Lukla Airport |
After meeting my
porter Padam, we start the process of walking through the airport town of Lukla
to the registration booth. I have been up for more than 36 hours by now, but
the sights, sounds and smells of the lush green valleys, with a distant glimpse
of snow peaked mountains is enough to put a sparkle in my eyes. Today is a
leisurely hike mainly along the rivers that hug the terrain. While in
mountains, the trek is measured more in time and elevation gain than in hours…today,
we walk for two hours, to cover 7.5km and net elevation loss of about 200m. A
perfect way to start the long journey. You pass by scenic villages every half
an hour, adorned with their prayer flags, the sherpa prayer rocks and the iconic
tea houses. This is also where you get the first lessons on the right of way –
Yak or Mule, you step over the left and wait. We reached Phakding by 2 PM and
that gives me plenty of time to take a hot shower, organize my hiking clothes
and sleep in early to shed off the fatigue of the last two days. Oh, and yes,
this is where you are introduced to your best friend for next 11 days…” daal
bhaat”, the staple diet that energizes from here to the 8,364m elevation of the
base camp one week on.
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| Phakding - and the walk along the river |
Day2: Phakding –
Namche Bazaar
Next day and the
things start getting serious now. I wake up to meet my guide who joins us here,
Padam’s village mate, Tej Bahadur. Today we will be hiking up for most of the time,
for 5-6 hours to reach the most iconic stops on the trek – Namche Bazaar at
3,440m. As you start the trail the views start opening, and you start seeing a
few iconic mountains that will be along side you through out. Indeed, the most
stand out of these icons is Ama Dablam with is two peaks beaconing you on.
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| A strong coffee at the tea house - off to Namche |
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| With Tej, Padam & the Hillary Bridge |
The first half of the trek today is easy, mostly downhill or flat as you climb down the valley or “ghaat” until we reach our lunch point. Today is when you also start using the swinging suspension bridges that continue all the way up to midway of the trek. I sit down to eat another dose of “daal bhaat” while chatting with Tej about his experiences and sharing with him the stories from the Karakoram. It was indeed calm before the storm. The second half of the trek today is strenuous, as we start gaining the 800m elevation, we must climb stairs that are carved on the trail to aid the yaks and the villagers alike. There are stairs, and there are some more – and they just seem to continue. As you cross the 3000m mark, you start feeling the thinning air around you as well. This is where I start taking my Diamox.
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| Yaks - the machine that runs the show in Khumbu |
Today is also
most probably the most picturesque day of the trek as well. There is something that
is magical about white water stream, nestled in pines and capped by snowy mountains
– that is unmatched in any part of the world. Add to that the view from a very
high Hillary Suspension Bridge and the result is astounding. My guide tells me
that they may allow bungee jumping from this location from next season…that
would get into many bucket lists. Today is when you start seeing some other
hikers who are all following the same itinerary as you. Some of them will sit
with you around the stoves in tea houses over the next ten days and share their
pictures and stories, while some you will remember distinctively…the girl with
a fish net hat, the boy with the ref bandana, the elderly couple playing 70s Bollywood…they
are all out there. This is where you start meeting the first trekkers who are
returning from their excursions as well…you nod at them as you grunt your way through
the next set of stairs. If you are a meat eater, this is the last you should take
a chance with it, from here on, it's at least three days old.
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| Beauty galore - the views around Namche |
Day 3: Namche
Bazar – Acclimatization Day
Today we stay at
Namche Bazar to spend some time at this elevation. The town itself is built on the
top of the hill, and just walking around tests your muscles and breathing. We
have three items on the agenda to do today – the first being a short 1.5 hr
hike to the Everest Viewpoint at 4,100m. This is where we should get our first
glimpse of peak of the mighty mountain sneaking behind Lhotse and sitting alongside
the iconic Ama Dablam.
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| Ama Dablam, Lhotse and the Everest peaking from behind |
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| You just can't get enough of the view. |
Day 4: Namche
Bazar – Tengboche – Pangboche
Tengboche is the
largest monastery this side of Himalayas. My guide charts a path for me as soon
as we step out of Namche. From this vintage point, it looks a gradual slope to
walk on along the ridge. That is just a “feel good” moment that lasts
fleetingly. Tengboche is 200m higher than Namche, and to reach it, you must
climb down 300m and then climb back up 500m. This initial climb down stays
etched in the memory as this is the climb that we will have to overcome on the second
last day of the trek while coming back.
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| Upwards to Tengboche for a steep climb |
We reach
Tengboche in around 3 hours, a short visit to the monastery, a quick black
coffee and we decide to press on to Pangboche at 3,985m. It adds another hour
and half to the trek today but allows us to have a shorter trail the next day. The
trek from Tengboche to Pangboche is straight forward and has some very nice views
as we climb up towards the 4000m plus mark on the trail. From here on, you
start realizing that the amenities like hot shower, phone charging and hot drinking
water starts becoming more expensive. The size of the villages also starts
reducing, but amazingly the tea houses maintain Wi-Fi and the local N-Cell sim
works here. I am informed that it will continue to stay connected until we
reach our next stop in Dingboche and then will be off for three days. Another piece
of information that I am given is that it stays connected at the base camp…imagine
sharing live updates from 5,364m!
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| Climbing up as terrain changes while we approach Pengboche |
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| The Autumn colors strike against the white foam of the rivers |
It is four days
now and we have moved on from identification using the fashion sense, to first
name basis. I meet the world out here, Germany, Korea, China, India, Brazil,
Romania, UK, France, Spain….and the lone Pakistani amongst them. This is also
the point where you thank yourself for bringing that “Mummy” sleeping bag with
you – as the night falls, it plunges below zero. I end up cozily in my bed, thinking
back at the day…6 hours, 15kms and down 1000m and up 1500m. Not bad for the 4th
day on the tour.
Day 5: Pangboche
– Dingboche
Today we will
reach the second iconic point in our journey, Dingboche at 4,360m. This is where
we will really start to feel the mountains up close. Ama Dablam that has been a
distant guide so far, will be right there today with her wonderful glacial
lakes, and the lush valleys will give way to wind swept high meadows and snow-covered
peaks on either side of the trek. As is true with other hikes that I have
experiences, the hikes from today onwards would be shorter…today being around 7
kms so around 3 hours. Dingboche is where we will also make our second acclimatization
stay but this will include a very serious hike for some incredible views of
what is to come ahead.
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| One of the last suspension bridges before we step up to Pengboche |
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| Entering Alpine region above the tree line - with target always in sight now |
We reach
Dingboche in under 3 hours, and settle in. One keynote to remember at such
altitudes…you don’t feel hungry or thirsty, yet you must force yourself to drink
3litres of water at least a day and have two good meals. You will burn a lot of
calories at these elevations and will need every bit of that food to get you
through. This is where I notice a few groups start using their oxy meters and meet
a lovely young Mauritius couple who had a bit of decision to make…the wife had
started showing symptoms of altitude sickness, and tomorrow was a decision day
for them. While purists like me like to walk the trek up and down to consider
it off the bucket list, several trekkers may opt for flying back using a Heli.
Dingboche is popular spot for them to be collected on their downward journey,
using the pad at the sister village of Pheriche. You start meeting a few expeditions
here, some doing the famous three pass trek, some aiming for the island peak
that is distinctly visible from here and some taking a detour to Ama Dablam
base camp. So far, I am still the lone Pakistani on the trek.
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| Island Peak as seen from Dingboche |
Day 6: Dingboche
– Acclimatization Day
Today the rest
is not really rest…we must climb up to Nangkartshang Peak, which is almost
4,900m. It is a short 3km hike, but this is where you are tested against the
altitude for the first time. You hike up in slow steps, one at a time, taking
your time. As you start reaching the stone monuments and the prayer flags, the
valley below opens. Across the valleys you see Ama Dablam right in front of you…she
is a pretty mountain. Several trekkers make it to the mid-point and return – its
not a race…you should attempt this at your own pace and at your own comfort.
However, it is always good to challenge yourself with a higher altitude here,
so you can feel better for the rest of the two days to the base camp where the elevations
will continue to stay higher.
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| Ama Dablam and its turquise blue glacial lakes |
From the peak, you can also see several helicopters as they start their daily runs to bring down trekkers from the base camp, or rescuing trekkers who were feeling the heat of the altitude. One note to remember…altitude sickness is serious, if you feel that you are getting short of breath constantly, fatigued and that headache would just not go away…relieve yourself by making the right decision. Often, that is to go down. Secondly, it is common to feel a slight headache and a dry cough… the sherpas call it the “Khumbu cough” …I felt that keeping my window slightly open at night actually helped with the level of Oxygen in the room and I slept better. This is where you decide to add a hot water drinking bottle with you in your sleeping bag.
Day 7: Dingboche – Lobuche
We start early
today as this can be a 5-6hr hike. Majority of the trek stays above 4,300m
until we reach Lobuche at 4,930m. With the Alpine environment, sun or no sun can
make a difference of a few degrees on the trail. An early start also means that
it is cold, and we must dress up in layers. The thermals are truly in fashion
now, as well as the glove liners to protect the extremities.
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| Open meadows and the Himalayan Panorama |
As we the Day 2
of the hike, I see a repeating trend today. The first part of the hike to Dukla
is relatively easy. It is generally on a flat ground and if you can manage the
early morning temperatures, the walk is refreshing. Tej, my guide insists that
I do drink water, take my black coffee and try to eat something before we continue
onwards. He just mentions, “the next section is a bit steep, so rest now a bit”.
And this time, he was serious.
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| Mount Pumori is a constant addition to our vista now |
I feel refreshed
and full of energy. Maybe it’s the Diamox or the acclimatization hikes, but I
am eager to push on. I do see several climbers feeling the impact of altitude
here. Once again, this is not a race – take it slow, take it at your own pace. The
last one hour of the trek to Lobuche is relatively easy, and along the Khumbu glacier.
We do get into a few bottleneck situations with yaks, mules and trekkers all trying
to come down and holding their ground while we are trying to push up. While
still 3,500m below, I do imagine being on the last push to the Everest and the iconic
picture of the bottleneck at the Hillary step located near the summit of the great
mountain.
Day 8: Lobuche –
Gorakshep – Everest Base Camp – Gorakshep – Kala Pathar – Gorakshep
Today is the day….and
I just cannot wait. This is what it has all come down to. 3 hours to Gorakshep
at 5,160m, the last tea house stop on the trek – a rest and a tea and then
another 3 hours to the base camp at 5,364m. Surprisingly, while long in terms
of time, the hike is relatively easy and flat. It is a slight climb from
Lobuche to Gorakshep and then a relatively flat trail along the glacier until you
reach the starting point of the Everest expeditions, the base camp. Another
good news, you don’t have to carry your day bags with you as you will be coming
back to the tea house, so you can travel light to the base camp and back. Once
again, take it slow – most of the day today will be around 5,000m elevation so
each step will consume more breaths than the earlier days. It is natural to
feel fatigued and wanting to stop. I have developed this habit of taking 200
steps and then stopping for ten deep breaths at these altitudes. It worked for
me…so find your Zen and embrace the challenge…it is totally worth it!
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| Almost there - trekking along the Khumbu Glacier |
The adrenalin pushes you on. Halfway on the trek from Gorakshep to the base camp, you start seeing Everest poke its head behind Nuptse. It is right there – right in front of you. This is where I may want to mention a key difference between the K2 and Everest base camp treks. On the K2 side, as soon as you turn North from Concordia, (the Gorakshep stop on that trek); K2 is right there in front of you with all its glory. The single mountain, standing tall. And when you reach the base camp, you are literally a stone’s throw away from K2 itself. This would be true for Everest also if you were coming from its Northern slope, from Tibet. From Nepal, Everest is largely behind the Khumbu Icefall, and covered by Lhotse and Nuptse, Pherichewhich is right there at the base camp, so you may not see the summit in its full glory. This is another reason to keep Kala Pathar in your itinerary.
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| Been There Done That - Everest Base Camp - 5,364m |
Arriving at the
base camp is surreal. You see the iconic Khumbu Icefall, the most notorious sections
leading up to the summit. There is a sense of relief when you reach the rock
that has a spray paint marked sign on it stating, “Everest Base Camp – 5,364m”.
The place is buzzing with life. I went there in October so there were no
expeditions. If you come in spring, this place would be full of tents. Still,
there is a queue to take pictures in front of the marker…I too get in line, and
have my moment of “been there, done that”. This year, the cricket world cup is
happening in India…and I had carried a team jersey with me. So, this one is for
team, win or lose…. we love you!
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| Iconic Khumbu Icefall and the Everest peak just behind Nuptse |
After spending
around 30 minutes at the base camp marker, and getting a bit closer to the Icefall,
I take one last look at the majestic landscape in front of me, and head back to
Gorakshep. We reached Gorakshep around 2:30PM. I was very inclined to do the
trek to Kala Pathar. One, for getting a chance at seeing the Everest Summit in
it its true sense and second, achieving a milestone of having hiked above
5,500m during the trek. Generally, the trip to Kala Pathar is scheduled as a sunrise
event and most of the trekkers I met were focusing on same. However, I had
three things in my mind that were pushing me to make the attempt the same day.
First, it gets cold at the top as the peak is totally open and windswept…and
when I say cold, read -5 to -15deg C without windchill. Second, as the sun would
rise behind Everest, I doubted that the pictures would do justice to the beauty
that we would be able to see…I would rather take my chance to see the glorious and
mythical golden sunset with the last beams of the sun kissing Everest as she
stood tall in the panorama. And lastly, tomorrow would be a long hike back down
to Pangboche – 5-7 hours…to start the day with a cold 4 hour round trip before
this hike was sounding too tiring for me.
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| Pumori seems mystical as the clouds roll in |
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| Ama Dablam sticks its cone above the cloud cover |
Based on this analytical
discussion in my mind, and feeling comfortable that I am fit to make the run to
the top of Kala Pathar the same day, we decided to return to Gorakshep, have a one-hour
rest and at 3:30 PM start our trek to the peak, to coincide with the sunset. The
climb up is tough….it is steep, it is cold and with every step you gain another
meter or so. Once again, it is your mind, and will that keep you going. Several
trekkers went up the halfway marker and returned – we reached this point in
good time. And then the clouds started coming, literally from all around us, like
fog creeping up the meadows. They covered our view of Pumori which now looked
like a hanging mountain behind us. At this point, I had to make a call – do we
take a chance with the weather clearing up or call it a day. With my personal
target of crossing 5,500m in my mind, I decided to push on. The cold was now
creeping through my snow gloves and through the liners. I stopped and took off
my gloves to warm my fingers. They had turned blue. I told Tej that I need to
walk without the poles now, with my hands in my pockets. Padam volunteered to
carry the poles in case we needed them, and we carried on. As if right on the
dot, at 5:30 PM we reached the summit, and I was climbing up when Tej exclaimed
– “Sagarmatha!” …I looked in his direction, and there in all her glory nestled
between her sisters was Everest – glowing golden in the dying light of the sun.
This is indeed one of the moments that will stay with me for the rest of my
life. Words cannot describe the beauty of seeing the golden hallow gradually
moving up the façade of the surrounding mountains and finally kissing the peak
of Everest – while far towards the east the conical peak of Ama Dablam rises
above the sea of clouds. Take my word for it, if you have the strength, go up
to Kala Pathar for the sunset…it is a spectacle of a lifetime.
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| A spectacle of white and gold as sun sets on Everest |
Tej asked me to
start the return journey down immediately afterwards. It is a steep climb down
and you don’t want it to be in completely dark. I turned on my head lamp and
let Tej lead the way down. I did ask him to stop for a moment as I took one
last look at the towering beauty that is Everest in front of me. A feeling of elation
and nostalgia, and forty minutes later we were back in the coziness of our Teahouse.
And as we sat around the stove, and shared the stories, and my pictures from
the day…we met a French trail runner who showed me his strava run to the Kala
Pathar summit…46 minutes! Met a wonderful family from Mumbai as well who with
their 8-year-old daughter were targeting the base camp the next day. I had
stayed connected enough to the outside world to be careful not to discuss the India
Pakistan fixture that had coincidently happened the day I had landed in Namche.
I was still the lone Pakistani on the trek, and I decided that I would leave the
team jersey as a memento on the walls of the Teahouse…a part of Pakistan left
behind, right next to the certificate showing the time for the Sherpa Marathon
winner – Namche to Base Camp and back…under 8 hours. As if to tell myself, it
is not a goodbye Everest, it is just “till we meet again”.
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| Nostalgic last look at the mountains |
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| Climbing down to Pheriche |
This ends one of
the most memorable journeys that I will ever undertake. My first introduction
to a country full of beauty and beautiful people, Nepal. Walking the same trail
that Tenzing and Hillary had walked many a decades ago when they put this mountain
firmly on the map. At the end, the feeling is divine, spiritual and fulfilling.
They say the mountains call for you, and if you hear that calling – it calms
you down like the cold glacier lake at their foothills.
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| The image that imprints for ever - Sun kissing Everest |
And you can be part of my journey right here.
