Journey to the throne of gods - Climbing the Gondogoro La from Hushe

It was back in 2016 that the tides of time turned and the explorer within me sat up straight and decided to go on an adventure. Different names were written and thrown in a bowl. Each piece of paper nicely folded so as to not reveal the secrets within. Then with a churn to the left and a churn to the right, the ingredients in the bowl were nicely mixed. With a reluctant smile, and a trembling hand, one folded member of the paper family was picked up..."K2 Base Camp & Gondogoro La", read the caption. There, in just few seconds, the decision was made to be at the foot of the second highest mountain in the world. 

 

You can hear all about it below:

But as fate would have it; while i was able to stand in the shadows of Chogori, the Gondogoro La pass remained elusive. Many moons passed and the yearn to climb this marvel at 5,650m continued like an ache that needed to be cured. And as fate would have it, this was the year that I finally decided to listen to the calling and return to the giants. Hence started the planning for the journey to the throne of gods, The Gondogoro La, but this time from Hushe! 

This last minor detail is important because the usual route is to take the challenge from Concordia to Ali Camp, to Gondogor La and climbing down the steep descent into Hushe. My plan was to complete my unfinished dream in five days, climbing the steep climb up from Hushe and back down the same way. 

 Aggressive? Yes

 Worth it? absolutely!.

Day 1: Hushe to Saicho

It all started in Hushe. A village 42kms north of Khaplu and a heavenly place few get to hear about. Many of our High-Altitude Porters (HAPs) come from this region. Machlu, Kande and Hushe host many a story of warriors battling the odds, looking eye to eye at the spanners thrown at them by nature, and returning to their families, victorious and proud. While we were there for a night, we heard of a porter who had been part of an expedition that had successfully scaled K2 earlier that morning and the whole family was receiving accolades for the success. 

 Hushe should not be an untold story - it deserves so much more.  

Hushe

50 shades of green

First day of hike is a casual stroll along the valley. Barren Rocky Mountains starting to rise on either side, a constant view of the Masherbrum with its snowy peaks and the oasis of multicolored flowers within its laps. The track takes you through couple of river crossings, with the gushing tributaries rushing downhill to meet their neighbors. And if you are lucky, like we were, you might catch a glimpse of a snow leopard's foot mark on the track. This valley is famous for its "markhors" that come down to graze here in winters, and the game of prey and predator continues amongst ice covered peaks. Roughly three hours in and you reach Saicho, the first camp site. 

Day 2: Saicho to Dalsangpa

The day started with a discussion on whether we should be staying overnight in Dalsangpa, the base camp of Leila Peak or carry on forward to Khuspang, which is the last camp site before the 1300m, one night ascent to the Gondogoro La. After some discussion, some experienced sky watching by my guide Nabi, and the wisdom shared by the cook Ali Khan, it was decided that the night will be spent at Dalsangpa. This will allow better climatization and break the journey into easier three-to-four-hour daily hikes. 

Dalsangpa is where the climbers set their camp for ascending the Leila Peak, also known as "Queen of Mountains," for its beautiful shape. It is once again a nice 3-hour trek which takes you through some riverbeds, sloping valleys and some herder's huts. Before opening to the majestic view of Masherbrum - now, so very nearby. It is a gentle climb of around 200m and you are finally above 4000m during this trek. The air starts getting thinner and you do start feeling the need to breath heavier and more. 

Leila Peak

We were welcomed at the camp by an expedition support team. The climbers had gone up to scale the mountain three days ago and the team had just received the confirmation of the summit. We were part of the welcoming committee that lined up to present garlands and hot tea to the three men as they returned to Dalsangpa just before the sunset. 

Day 3: Dalsangpa to Khuspang

We woke up to see some cotton white clouds towards our destination, and that uneasy feeling started creeping in...is the weather going to to turn on us? For Gondogoro La, the weather plays an important role on two fronts. First, you need it to be not windy or raining to climb up the sharp angles towards the pass. And second, when you reach the top, you need to be lucky enough to get the view that you came for - the four 8000m peaks, led by K2, lined up in panorama - hence the name, "throne of gods". So, with beating hearts, and crossed fingers, we started our journey towards Khuspang. 

Today we climb another 300m to a net elevation of around 4300m. However, the climb starts becoming more exciting. As soon as we leave Dalsangpa, the terrain changes. Masherbrum continues to guide us from behind while the Leila Peak allows us her first look on the right. We leave the valley to walk onto the glacier. Up and down, we climb on the moraine. Three such cycles and we will be at Khuspang. 

Standing guard at Masherbrum

Climbing onto the Glacier

Leila Peak

Around three hours later, we reach the last camp site before the pass, Khuspang. As it hosts the trekkers climbing down from the Concordia route as well, it is a sizable camp, and gives the vibe of a multinational route that this trek has become over the years. . 

Approaching Khuspang Camp

The weather started turning blue as we reached Khuspang. Based on the combined wisdom of the group, it was decided that we will rest here for few hours, then before sunset I will trek to the Gondogoro La high camp with Nabi, my guide and Raheen - our senior porter who was supposed to provide me both emotional and physical support. And he did! 

We will stay at the high camp for three to four hours, and then around mid-night start the climb from high camp to the summit, 1300m in total, in under six hours. Spend fifteen minutes at the top and then climb down the sharp, 45-to-60-degree slopes, with loose rocks and cliff edges, to Khuspang. 

I had butterflies in my stomach...was I rested enough? Was I climatized enough? Will I be able to use the "Jumar" to assist me climb the roped slopes? In hindsight, the answer was, "not really" and if I do this route again, I would love to have another day at Khuspang to get better hold of the declining oxygen levels at these heights. However, luck favors the brave they say - so we decided to set off for the high camp...an anxious trekker, an experienced guide and a young second lead.

Day 4: Khuspang to High Camp to Gondogoro La, and back

Now the going got tough so the tough must get going. Couple of hours before sunset we did final checks on our essentials. Day pack, check!, Head lamp, check!, Cramp-ons, check!, Jumar, check!, Carabiners, check!, Spare batteries for go pro, check!, Sleeping bag, check!, tent, check!, thermals and gloves, check!, bites to eat, check!, my little Pakistan flag, check! - butterflies in stomach, check!...and so we started, just like the people of shire, in the Lord of the rings, but a fellowship of three...I, Nabi my guide and Raheen, the second lead. 

Leaving behind Khuspang, and keeping Leila Peak on our backs, we start our climb towards the Gondogoro La high camp, at around 4,600m. After a track of around one a half hour, we reached the location, at the bank of the Gondogoro La glacier and decided to camp for the next four to five hours. 

Looking back at Leila Peak from the High Camp

This is where I got to get a better look at that notch in the mountain, that was the Gondoro La pass. Flanked on one side by snow cap, and on the other by a sharp wall of rubble stone. a climb of over 1,000m. Raheen told me that this is the first time he has seen no snow near the top. Must be the climate change, he said. He and Nabi had crossed this pass from Concordia just a week back and it was knee deep in snow. While this was good news for me climbing up, it also meant that we need to be back, and out of the danger zone very quickly on our way down. No ice means more loose rocks, and rocks can be very dangerous - be it slipping below your feet or getting dislodged above your head. 

Setting up the tent at High Camp - First look at Gondogoro La pass

We had a few bites to eat and then we decided to tuck in our sleeping bags. Just after mid night our alarms went off and we started to pack up for the hike. The wind had a strong chill to it, and the gloves felt cold on first touch. Donning my head lamp, I started following Nabi. Raheen was walking behind me to make sure that I keep on the track. I have climbed Kiliminjaro, so have had an experience of climbing over a 1000m to reach a summit above 5,500m in the night - however the air felt thinner here. I was soon stopping to catch my breath every 100 steps, and then 50. The first hour and a half was a casual climb, around 30 degrees, watching for crevices, finding our way around a glacier, choosing the best rock to sit under for a few breaths - and then once again continuing our journey in the halos of our head lamps. 

Around 400m from the top, we reach the point from which the ropes had already been set all the way to the summit. The climb here would not be possible for a novice like me without the aid of the rope and the carabiner tied to it for safety. The slope sharply increases to 45 and at times 60 degrees.  Nabi was hopping along ahead of me like a kid running up a slide, casually holding on to the rope. I, on the other hand would pull myself up, and then stop to catch my breath every 50 steps, and then 25. This is where I got my first experience with Jumar...a highly recommended device that latches on to the rope, acting like a hook, that allows you to use your legs to push yourself up. Just after the sunrise we reached a junction point, where we saw the first porters climbing down from the Concordia side, and behind them the members of the rescue team. The rescue team regularly climbs down on either side of the pass to check on health of the ropes and to clean the path as much as they can. 

As we paused to let them pass, I got to see the marvelous landscape around us. We had climbed almost a kilometer above Khuspang, and the scenery was just out of this world. With massive glaciers hanging off their mountain hosts, leading down into a valley. One could spot the small lake with a yellow dot in some distance. That would be our tent at the high camp. And then further below the green hue of Khuspang. And of course, the Leila Peak, as she welcomed the dawn out in the distance. 

Hanging by the rope - as we climbed up the slopes

Glaciers looking over the valley - approaching the summit

One last push and we reached the top of the ropes. A small stone hut signaled that we are approaching the pass. There was snow at the top, and we started walking towards the small crest in front of us. I was still marveling at the scenery below when Nabi nudged me and said, look...K2. And there she was, Chogori, the second highest mountain in the world right in front of us. Even up close, it looked daunting, and I marveled at the skills of people who managed to climb another 3,000m to get to its summit. 

At Gondogoro La summit - 5,650m

The yearning stopped - the aches and fatigue, a distant memory. I could spend a lifetime looking at the scene. The heavens had been kind and we had a picture-perfect weather. The white snow at our feet and the cotton clouds in the sky. Framed perfectly between them the scene that I had so wanted to be a witness to. Four of the highest peaks in the world, in one frame - K2, Broad Peak, G2 & G4 - right there, close enough to touch.

The Gondogoro La summit - From center of picture to right, K2, Broad Peak, G2 & G4

I was around an hour late at the summit then planned so Nabi rushed us to take some quick pictures, make a short video and then head back down before the sun starts melting the ice and the mountain starts dislodging stones at us. So down we went, and after a few slips, a couple of small bruises, a close encounter with a crevice, dodging a couple of stones, and helping a team of three American brothers find their way...we reached the high camp. 

Couple of teacups later, we started the climb down to Khuspang. Exactly ten hours since I had started my climb from the high camp, I was back in the now familiar company of our porters and cook, Ali Khan. Not many people have done Gondogoro La, and ever fewer have climbed it from Hushe - with that thought in my mind, I slept well that night. 

Day 5/6: Khuspang to Saicho to Hushe

The next morning, we packed our bags, and set out for Saicho. With every downward step, the breathing became easier. Crossing the three up and down cycles of glacier, passing by the now empty Dalsangpa and searching for another footprint of a big cat, we reached Saicho in seven hours. Something to celebrate with bottles of Mountain Dew and Coca Cola in the evening. 

Next morning, we started the walk back to Hushe, through the blue and red flowers, Masherbrum by our side and the green valley hustling us in. Surprisingly, I reached the park ranger's office in under ninety minutes, and well ahead of both Nabi and Ali Khan. I am sure they planned it that way to make me feel good about myself. 

Hence ended the journey. Another item ticked off the "to-do" list. We packed our jeep to return to civilization and the ringing of cell phones, paying of bills, and replying of emails - but for many days afterwards, whenever I closed my eyes all I saw was the four giants framed perfectly in the white of the snow and the blanket of the clouds. 

Walking with the Inca - A trip to Machu Picchu

"Ama suwa, ama llulla, ama qhella" – was the age-old quote in the Andean highlands that defined the code of life for a nation that rose from oblivion to become one of the greatest cultures of its time…The Inca. The Quechua saying means, “do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy”. This simple rule that defined the social interaction within this people was enough to create a kingdom, 500 years ago, that boasts one of the seven wonders of the world today…Machu Picchu.



Coricancha - Cuso

The passage to Machu Picchu using the historic trail is very controlled – only 500 permits are allowed per day, and that includes porters and guides. In addition, you can only use the trail under a guided tour. The permits are generally booked months in advance. So, it was decided at the beginning of the year, that this is where I will venture this year. Do the Inca, take the trail and walk the same footsteps that thousands of ancients used to move between the Incan capital Cusco and the King’s summer abode of Machu Picchu.

The sacred valley

The best time to do the hike is between August and October. This is the end of winter season in the Southern Hemisphere and the dry season is at its peak. I had originally booked my trip in September but had to revise the dates to November. November is when the wet season starts in the Andean highlands; so, with crossed fingers, I packed my bags, and greased my hiking boots to start the one-week trip to Peru.

Pisaq

Cusco, the ancient Inca capital is the first stop. Close to 3000m elevation, this also acts as a stop over to get climatized to this high elevation. Cusco is also where the Peru Rail starts in train journey for Machu Picchu, for those who do not want to toil the 4-day trail. The town is full of tourists, young and old. Many rejoicing in the memory of the marvel and plenty, looking forward to witnessing it. There is plenty to see in and around Cusco and this is where you get your first acquaintance with the Incas. The city had the largest temple of the empire, dedicated to sun, moon, stars and lightening called Coricancha. The Spanish destroyed the temple structure and built a convent on its foundations, but still some sections of the Inca architecture are wonderfully preserved here. 

Sacsayhuman

Nearby, there are other Inca sites that are accessible within driving distance. One site is Sacasayhuman, which presents a classic experience to view the architectural brilliance, use of local rock formations and use of ramp and rollers to move huge granite blocks set on one another without use of mortar. Or, a trip their sacred valley agricultural hub of Pisaq; that show cases their terraces and farming techniques. The final stop before the start of the trail is at Olyantamtobe, a massive Inca fortress. This is where you can see Tambos (the living quarters) and the Quilcas (grain silos), up and close.



Now, that you have been in Cusco and nearby towns for the last two days, you are ready to embark on the 4 day Inca trail.

Starting the Inca trail

 Day 1



The trailhead starts at km 82, a half an hour drive from Olyantaytambo. Some paperwork, and a quick walk through a small museum and you are on your way. This is also where I meet my guide Oswaldo, the cook Rosario and a team of four hard working, sturdy and light footed highland porters. It is these porters that make these excursions possible. And this is where you see the wonder that is coca leaf in action. Seeing these porters chewing a bunch of coca leaves and running up and down the trail, takes you back in time when the Incas used to have runners between their fortresses and the miracle coca plant.



Willkarakay settlement

Porters make light work of the aggressive climb

The first day is a gradual 12km hike with a net gain of 300m to a final elevation of 3000m. We hike along the Urubamba river for most part before climbing up to Huallabamba for the night camp. As we are passing through the rich and fertile valley, we see a lot of native flower and Fauna, including orchids, grenadine, avocado, passion fruit and corn. You pass through several villages where the highlanders still believe in the ancient Inca religion, seeking blessings of the surrounding snowcaps, and “Pacha-Mama”, the mother earth. The amalgamation of the catholic influence is definitely there but gets very limited as you start climbing up the trail. The highlight of the day is Willkarakay, a mountain side agricultural site that is a beautiful testament to the surprises this trail holds, before delivering you to its final jewel at Machu Picchu.

Day 2:

This is by far the toughest day of the trail. Right from the beginning the trail winds upwards at staggering pace. We will climb from to 4200m at Warmiwanuska (Dead Woman) pass, before climbing down to 3600 for the night at Pacaymayo. The climb is made more difficult by the fact that the 1200m gain is completed in only 6-7km, so a good gradient. In addition, unlike many other trails, the Incas used the mountain to their advantage; and that implied using stairs rather than straight path. In total the 4 day trail has more than 20,000 stair that you climb up or down. 




Approaching dead woman' pass

As we climb up towards the mountain pass, the clouds start coming in and it starts to drizzle. The cloud cover does not allow a direct sight of the snowcapped mountains and increase the mystery surrounding the ancient valley. We reach the top in 5 hours, to be greeted by tightening valley, above the tree line and plenty of Lamas. The Urubamba is now a silver thread somewhere down below. I cannot emphasize enough to take altitude sickness seriously here. The sudden elevation gain is quite visible and can cause headaches and fatigue issues if not taken care of properly.

After a short stay at the top, we climb down the trail to Pacaymayo. The climb down was made quite treacherous by the pouring rain. This is where good hiking boots, and the use of hiking poles helps. Many a hiker slipped that day, especially when climbing down the stairs – no wonder the stones had been polished thoroughly after centuries of use.

Day 3:



Intipata terraces

This is a long day in terms of distance, 18km in total. But almost all of it is downhill apart from the first couple of hours. We climb up to the Runkurakay pass at 4000m, before climbing down all the way to WinayWayna at 2665m, right at the gateway of Machu Picchu. That night it had rained quite heavily, and it was still foggy when we started the climb up to the pass. 



Urubamba comes in sight again

My guide asked me to climb at the top a short hill at the top of the pass to an altar. He wanted to perform a ceremony, praying to the ancient gods. Testament of the local beliefs that are still entrenched despite centuries of Christian influence. Taking three coca leaves, each representing the three stages of the world – the top or the heavens represented by the might condor, the middle where Inca lived, and presented by the powerful Puma and the under, represented by the Serpent. Inca did not believe in the concept of hell, but in another birth – hence they would bury their dead in fetal positions, mummified and with their belongings, ready to start the new life. We completed the ritual and started our climb down. It is almost all stairs from now to WinayWayna, and majority of this is the actual trail. Once again, the rain had made the journey challenging, both physically and mentally. In this one day alone, we come down almost 7000 stairs.



The climb down is made interesting by passing through several ruins at Phuyupatamarca and Intipata. As the trail passes right through Intipata, it allows you to see the marvel of Inca architecture on a smaller scale, including aqueducts, water fountains and the living quarters. Intipata, place of the Sun, is also where you start seeing the Urbamba river once again and the valley opens to show its grandeur. The WinayWayna ruins are very close to the camp site. This was a farming location that was built to secure food for the city of Machu Picchu. The site starts distinguishing between upper and lower-class houses, showing that you are approaching a seat of power now and its name seems to have kept it purpose…. WinayWayna means forever young. 

Day 4:

Negotiating the Gringo Killer

Today is the day. This is where it all comes together. We get up early to meet other hikers at the final check point. Although the gates are only opened at 5:30 in the morning, there is already a crowd gathered at the gate. From here on, it is a simple 5km walk to the ruins. However, the trail holds its biggest surprise right here. Around 3km into the trail is the Inti Punku (The Sungate). This acted as the guard point to the city and is perched on top of a small hill which is accessed by climbing a near vertical and narrow flight of 53 stairs, cleverly named by the guides as “The Gringo Killer”. From this view point, on a clear day, you can see the entire city of Machu Picchu, with its terraces, the central pyramid stricture, the temples, the living quarters and the lush gardens. The city is shaped like a condor facing the Huyana Picchu mountain.





There she is!

Entering the city

When we reached the sun gate, the weather had turned cloudy and there was a number of hikers gathered there, not wanting to leave before getting this glimpse of the city from this vintage point. One by one, they all left, until it was just Oswaldo and I sitting on the Inca laid stone wall. I looked at him and said, “I need to see it – won’t be back here any time soon”. He replied very calmly, “in that case you must blow to move the clouds away”. And just like that we both blew into the wind, and for that one moment, the cloud cover parted, and we got to see the site that we had travelled all this time for. When you view the city from this vintage point, you can close your eyes and go back 500 years to imagine all the Inca pilgrims, walking in line with their children and Lamas in tow, climbing over the sungate, and setting their eyes on what must have been a bustling place at the time, with banners, and thatched roofs, and chants of religious ceremonies, and music.

The Condor temple

The immaculate walls of the King's Chamber

Taking it all in, we start the short climb down to the city. Pictures cannot do justice to the architectural marvel. As you walk through the main entrance, you are welcomes by terraces, and two storied huts, and barns, and grain storage sites and the king’s chambers and the central structure of the sun temple, and the cleverly carved condor temple – all leading up to the Sun Dial on top of the central pyramid. When Bingham discovered this place in the early twentieth century, he wrote that he was mesmerized by the fineness of some of the walls. You can witness the excellence, when you visit the king’s chambers or the temples, where stone after stone has been immaculately placed, just like Lego blocks, finished to a razor edge straightness and knit without the use or mortar. It took us good three hours to visit all the main sections of the city.



Machu Picchu

Finally embraced by the joyful feeling of been there, done that…. we take the bus back to the city of Aguas Calientes, for a well-deserved lunch, and onward to Cusco using the Peru Rail. As the train rushes through the corn fields, in the shadows of the snow caps and amidst the sounds of the Urubamba river; I cannot help but send a silent prayer to Pacha-Mama for letting me see her wonders. And then, I calmly sit back, close my eyes, and chew on my coca leaves.

Take it all in, in just 5 minutes at....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyndP-volIQ&t=55s

Climbing to Africa's Roof - A trip to Kilemenjaro

A Nomad’s Diary: Climbing to the top of Africa

I am sure if you have a free spirit residing somewhere deep in your heart, you must be carrying with you a list of “to do” things. For me, this list sort of evolved over the last few years. I had to relocate to Canada for work and that is where I discovered my love for a camera and the heavenly scenery around me. The quest to find that next best shot or the view from the top, led to hiking. The feeling that you get when you go around that rock outcropping and the lookout opens to a vast valley leading to snowcapped mountains – or the clouds swirling below – or that first look at sun as you sit on the top of your trail waiting for it to happen…the rush cannot be told, it can just be felt. My “been dere, done dat” list started changing. The sky scrapers moved aside and Machu Pechu, K2 Base Camp, Gondora La, Kilimanjaro and Denali creeped in. Having done the K2 trail last year, the coin was flipped and the call for 2017 came for Africa, Kilimanjaro, the tallest free-standing mountain in the world and Africa’s highest point.

In September this year, I booked myself in for the 6 day Machame route to the top of the Kilimanjaro. The usual speech for any such adventure is a must here as well. Know your group, know your guide, know your route, know your climate, know your limit and above all, plan for it.

I met my group Saturday morning – Scott, Mike, Will and Colin. Two brothers, a brother in law and a high school friend. Our guides and porters welcome us by saying “Jumbo” or hello in Swahili. And we immediately hit the right spots. We compared our notes, who has done what before, who has what kind of medicines, who has “Diamox” the altitude sickness medicine, who has the pain killers, who hikes fast, who hikes slow…and above all, who loves to play which card game. Our guide Minja, preferred to be called Mr. Goodluck or Mr. 100% - while our Assistant Guide preferred to be called “God bless”. We need all three – so we were fine with the names!

Day1 : The first day of the hike is an easy paced one. You spend almost the same time travelling from Arusha to Machame Gate and registering yourself as you spend on the trail. There are many routes you can take to reach the peak; Machame is the most popular. Primarily because of the impressive views, varied habitats and shorter duration. At the same time, it is also known as Whiskey route, given its reputation for the tough climb. In contrast to Marangu route, which is nick named Coca Cola route for its ease and the capacity to sleep in huts, than tents. So day 1 starts at the Machame gate which is at 1,640m elevation. After registration, you start a gentle climb through the lush and fertile rain forest canopy. In about four hours, including a stop for a quick snack or two, you reach Machame Camp which is around 2,850m. It is a 11 km hike, and is a good appetizer for the days to come.

Hiking through the rain forest

Day2: Today we hike to Shira Camp. Shira is a plateau around 3800m high. It is a short hike around 5km with a 1000m elevation gain.

Hiking to Shira Plateau

The terrain changes from rain forest to Moorland. If you are lucky, as we were, you may be walking in clouds for some part of the hike giving the Moorlands a magical exposure. Also, the habitat gives rise to some peculiar plant species that are only found here.

The "Frat Boys" and I

These are giants of their kind, seeping the moisture from the atmosphere and creating the oasis in an otherwise barren landscape. Shira camp is also a good place to get some nice sky views in the night.

The night sky over Shira Plateau

 Day 3: Today you get your first exposure to be above 4000m. The day trip is used as a acclimatization routine. We start at the Shira plateau and then keep climbing up gradually through a gentle slope to a maximum elevation of 4800m at the lava tower.

At Lava Tower

From now on, the Kibo peak is always in your sight. The lava tower is a single piece of rock jutting out at the top of the climb. It is also called “The Shark’s tooth”.

Walking through Moorlands

We only stay there for a short lunch. After the tower, we continue to climb down to the Baranco Hut camp site.

Hiking through the misty landscape

You end the day almost at the same elevation as where you started but the climb to the tower is an important step to climatize yourself and be prepared for the summit night. From my experience, this marked the end of “non-technical” hiking. From tomorrow we will start climbing, a bit of scrambling and start the 36 hours journey which will take us to the top of Africa and back.

Day4: The Baranco camp is right in the shadow of the mountain. The morning started with a beautiful sunrise over the peak. The porters celebrate the start of the day with “Jumbo Bwana” – a nice combination of lyrics with its origins in Kenya. And those of us who have seen The Lion King multiple times can clearly recognize “Hakuna Matata” which means No Problem in Swahili.

Managing Baranco Wall

After breakfast, we leave the camp and head towards the steep ridge of Baranco wall. It is amazing to see the porters carrying up to 15kgs on their shoulders and heads passing by at a running pace while you scramble on your hands and knees to climb up a few narrow ledges. Soon you are on top of the wall and the scenery opens. At this elevation, the environment is reducing to a desert. No vegetation in site. We walk towards the Karanga Camp. We see Karanga from the top of the ridge and it looks just a few hundred yards away. Until you realize that there is a steep valley between you and the camp. We had our first hail storm on way to Karanga – but it was short lived.

Reaching Barafu Hut

Finally we reach the Barafu Hut. Our destination for the evening before we start our bid for the summit. The camp is at 4600m and here we get into our tents for a few hours of rest while seeing the Mwenzi and Kibo peaks.

Day 5: This day starts at midnight. The next 24 hours were my toughest experience to date. Tonight we start our bid to climb to a final elevation of 5895m. The ascent will test your nerves. Our target is to reach Stella Point on the edge of the crater rim in time for the sun rise. We wake up at midnight and start our hike at 1 in the morning. The freezing temperature, the dark night, the limited vision that only lights up the circle of your head lamp and the sharp gain of elevation; 1300m over 5kms and 5 hrs - all play tricks. This is a “mind over body” game. Within the first hour the trail starts taking its toll. The light headedness is known to cause black outs and headaches. The trick is to stay focused, one step at a time. Your pace is low, but it needs to be consistent so you can keep your body warm. The more you stop, the more you must get yourself back in the mood. Our guide wanted us to stop after 70-90 minutes and that too for a maximum of five minutes. One of our team members drifted in a mindless walk twice and he was placed at the head of the group. Slowly but surely, we kept climbing.

At Stella Point

Along the way, we saw 7 or 8 other groups. Almost every one of them had one or two climbers who had his or her head in hands, or was feeling highly nauseated. Altitude sickness is a real concern on the summit, and this is where we all recognized the important of taking Diamox. We reached Stella point just before sunrise.

Sun rises in Africa

We stopped for 15 minutes to take it all in. Completely exhausted and drained. This is where it “dawned” on us, that we were the first in Africa to feel the sun’s rays on our faces today. When you realize that, the struggle, the mental toughness and the fatigue completely makes sense. The dawn is beautiful. Behind us, the crater comes into view, cradled by Rebmann and Retzel glaciers.

Rebmann Glacier

From here, there is an hour’s gradual ascent to Uhuru peak which is the highest point on the crater rim and the peak of Kilimanjaro.

Almost there

We were the second group to reach the peak. I still feel goose bumps remembering those final steps. I touched the sign at the top of the peak to make sure that I had been there and done that, and may to assure myself that this was not a dream.

Been Dere Done Dat

We are not allowed to spend more than 15-20 minutes on the peak to avoid altitude sickness.

A final look at the crater

The climb down the scree is aggressive. You must go down the same way as you came up, 1400m in 5 kms. And the terrain is loose rocks and scree.

All in a day's work in Africa

Ascent was purely a mind game, but coming down at this speed and slop, is a physical challenge. We stop at Barafu Hut to remove our layers, and have a small breather. The porters welcome every member of our team with fist bumps and songs.

Trying to match the song and dance routine

The hike down from Barafu to Mweka Hut is mentioned “easy” in most of the brochures. I think that should be revised. The trail is a stair case for almost 6kms where you climb down foot high steps all along the way. Tonight, is our last night on the trail and the crews help us celebrate it with a well-deserved cake.

The stair case down to Muweka Camp

Day 6: Finally, the last day of the trail. We spent most of the night sharing notes, sharing the stories of hallucination, black outs and drunk walking that some of us had experience on the climb. The target was achieved and now it is just a gentle stroll back to Mweka Gate for our ride to Arusha. The day starts with a final song and dance routine by our porters and guides. We take group photos and head down. At the gate, we receive our official certificates – a document to cherish. And this is where we thank our guides and porters for without them none of this would have been possible. We helped our guide to keep his luck and score intact, he came with a reputation of 100% and he maintained that with us.

The last stop

Africa lived up to its reputation. Mystic, mysterious and enchanting. We were welcomed by chants of Jumbo when we started our trip, and we end it by saying “Asante Sana” – thank you very much to one and all. Asante Sana and Kwahiri…goodbye!

From Jumbo to Kwahiri - one pack, one team

PS: You may witness it all in real time at:Kilemenjaro and back in 12 mins